Fiberglass Core Replacement Part 1

This episode covers the general scope of the project. The issue that we ran into here surprisingly wasn’t a rotten core, but rather the plywood core itself completely delaminated! After cutting the top fiberglass skin off, I removed all of the damaged core material and started getting things prepped for the next step; cutting and installing the NEW plywood core.

Stay tuned for part 2!!

The moisture meter that I used is made by Electrophysics and is their CT100 model.

The tool that I used for cutting the top fiberglass skin is called a Multimaster and is made by Fein and can be ordered through Jamestown Distributors

I can’t say enough about this tool; it’s become one of the major work-horses in my shop and since the day I first tried it I’ve always wondered how I got by without it!!!

20 Responses to “Fiberglass Core Replacement Part 1”
  1. Richard Parizeault says:

    THe core video played until you removed all the core materials and then I got the message this video is currently not available? Too bad very interesting stuff I’m getting ready to do a lot of work on my Scarab.


    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      Hi Richard, not sure what happened. I just checked the feed and it seems to be working on my end.. maybe try watching it again? If it fails again please let me know 🙂

      Thanks for letting me know!


  2. stan says:

    i sent a comment about spray painting a fiberglass hull , and if I could use clear coat but I didn’t see a comment back

    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      Hi Stan,

      You posted the original question on the ‘How To Reach Us’ section, to which I did reply.. Here’s the link for that along with my response 🙂 Kind of surprised you didn’t get an email notification….

      • stan says:

        TotalBoat Underdog Bottom Paint from JD distributors going with the blue and am thinking of putting a chrome silver and maroon metalflake in it also,,,,,, on the top half of boat thinking a pearl white or a white with a metalflake also still looking for that color…..I am taking a runabout and turning it into a flat deck boat with a center console…. I have really enjoyed your videos and they have been very informative to me….. any suggestions on this project I am doing would be greatly appreciated

  3. stan says:

    can I use a different paint on fiberglass other than marine grade
    like van sickle paint

    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      Not familiar with the paint you mentioned, but you can try it on the small area to see how durable it is.. Marine paints are used for a number of reasons; durability, chemical resistance, uv protection, etc. Most off the shelf paints will not hold up as well.

      • stan says:

        the paint that I mentioned previously is only a one season paint so I have found another that is multiple season paint Jamestown Select Ablative Bottom Paint do you think it would be okay to spray the metal flake onto the last coat of paint that I apply or do you have another suggestion for the metal flake application

        • stan says:

          do you have a suggestion for a economical bottom and top paint

          • ~Andy ~Andy says:

            Pettit makes some excellent products for both applications (bottom paint and topside). If you go to their website they have a chart to help determine which bottom paint is best for your use and location. For topside, their easy-poxy or easy-poxy2 are excellent choices for DIY 🙂

        • ~Andy ~Andy says:

          Are you looking to apply metal flake to bottom paint, or topside?

          • stan says:

            both top and bottom

          • ~Andy ~Andy says:

            Really see no need to flake the bottom (I’m referring to below the waterline). It just complicates things. If you want to flake the topside it can be done, bit it’s tricky and you need spray equipment (large compressor and cup gun). Unfortunately I don’t have any vids on how to do metal flake.. If you look around on youtube you should be able to pull something up..

            Good luck!

  4. stan says:

    Happy Thanksgiving
    to you and your family

  5. stan says:

    it seems as though sometimes when i leave a message on here it doesnt always take or should i say post,,,,,, maybe i am doing something wrong,,,, dont think i am this is kinda straight forword approach to sending messages

    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      Hi Stan,

      I only get 1 day a week to look over these messages (sometimes less). I see that there are quite a few of your inquiries pending approval; I’ll work on those shortly 🙂 Sorry about that..

  6. David says:

    Hi Andy,

    I’m really enjoying your videos. Thanks for the effort you put into them.
    After you chiseled out the old core material, did you do any sanding to finish removing the old ply material off the underlying glass layer?

    Kind regards,

  7. Jackson says:

    Is there any specific type of plywood (balsa, pressure treated, or marine plywood) that is preferred. I am repairing a soft spot and want the most bang for my buck. Plus, I don’t want to have to come back in 2 years and do it again.

    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      Marine ply is best (okoume or merranti, etc), stay away from pressure / treated as the glass will not bond well. I’d suggest replacing the soft area with the same as what was used in it’s construction. If the deck is balsa, that’s what I would go with 🙂

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