Help Support This Show!

By supporting Boatworks Today, you are helping to provide continued growth both in content and quality for your viewing enjoyment. Whether you have gained insight through emails that have been answered or from the content provided in the videos (hopefully both!), I hope that you give some consideration to helping support this show and what I’m trying to build!!

Support can be given a number of ways. The most beneficial is becoming a monthly supporter through Patreon for as little as $3 per month. By doing so, you’ll have access to extended, ad free versions of new episodes that contain more detail and techniques! I also do a followup Q&A where I’ll answer any questions you may have about the video πŸ™‚

Support can also be given through purchases from our online store.

Donations are also welcome and have become a popular option if you happen to have a quick question about a project that you’re working on.

If you’re not in the position to offer support financially, I understand! Help can be given in other ways as well; Likes and Shares for the video’s do a lot to spread the word! Mention this website to someone you know, post a link to Boatworks Today on your Facebook, Twitter or Google+ account! Every bit goes a long way!

Thank you for your consideration!

~Andy Miller




Comments
41 Responses to “Help Support This Show!
  1. Shane says:

    I am a newbee here! I purchased a Boston Whaler Montauk 17. Got a great deal but it needs cosmetic work. I work in a bank as a Financial Advisor but tinker in my garage from time to time. So go slow. I removed the Rubrail and pulled out inserts(??) not sure what you call them. Noticed a little rot in screw holes and the outer layer (fiberglass??)that meets at corners is seperating at the corners and below about an inch.. I have a handheld saw and grinder. I am trying to figure out what to do here. Do i saw off layers and re fiberglass. Use bonding agent and reshape after cleaning of any rot and repair small fiberglass holes and then fill screw holes and redrill after filling??

    Any help would be great.

    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      Hey Shane, Welcome! πŸ™‚ If you would, please email me a couple of pics so I can see what you’re seeing.. I’m working being able to post pics here in the comment section of the website but haven’t gotten that far yet :-O Maybe this weekend! OR, you can post them on my Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/BoatworksToday

  2. William says:

    Thank you for your videos. I will be doing a core replacement on my cruisers barnegat this fall.I am planning on using the awlgrip non skid as you did in your video. My question is what is the advantage of using awlgrip as opposed to gel coat and how long can I expect the awlgrip to last? Thanks again for your videos they are very helpful.

    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      The main advantage to painting over gelcoating is time πŸ™‚ The painting process will take less than 1/4 the time of gelcoating (mostly as there is a lot of sanding involved to get the smooth areas right and blend into the non-skid areas)..

      Depending on how hard you are on the surface it can last many years. But if you’re dragging coolers across the deck or have rocks stuck in the treads of your shoes the life of the finish will be greatly shortened.. With ‘normal wear and tear’ I’d say at least 10 years πŸ™‚ Even then touch ups are fairly simple..

      Hope this helps!

      ~Andy

  3. Ed King says:

    Andy,
    It’s awesome what you are doing to help everyone! In the near future I will be sending something to help out. As an old timer on a fixed income it’s a little hard right now.

    It has been quite awhile since I have done any fiberglass work, but I will be getting into a lot of rebuilding as I just pick-up a 22′ 1978 Chris Craft Dory, that sunk during hurricane Sandy. As beautiful as the hull is, I plan to restore her to her old glory. Hope I can pick your brain when needed. The biggest job is replacing all the balsa core flooring. Just one other question right now, How much difference in Awlgrip and Perfection, are both made by Interlux.

    Thanks
    Ed

    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      Hey Ed,

      To be honest I haven’t used Perfection too much (no reason why; just tend to use Awlgrip as it’s a factory match for the repairs I’m doing) πŸ™‚ In my opinion it’s splitting hairs; Perfection is a little more user friendly (less complicated as far as different thinners, mixing ratio’s etc) but Awlgrip is an industry standard for many repairs that I do. If you’re going to be starting from step one, I think I would give some serious consideration to a product that Pettit has come out with;

      Very user friendly, excellent results and is priced about the same or less than Perfection…

  4. Rodney says:

    Hello Andy,

    Great videos with a wealth of knowledge and expertise. I have removed a worn out swim pad from my 2008 Regal Cuddy in order to install a new Seadek swim platform non-skid pad. This foam-type pad removed from my integral swim platform was adhered with a polyurethane adhesive. This required mechanical means for removal and alot of sanding. The meat of the adhesive was removed with a four inch (razor) floor scraper. I have some small areas where the scraper gouged and chipped through the gelcoat down to the base fiberglass. I have watched your videos where you demonstrate and recommend using Adtech’s P14 ultra filler. My question is if I can use a simple two-part marine expoxy (Loctite brand) to fill these small voids? Which of the these two products would you recommend? Would either of them be compatible with Seadeks PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive)? Thanks in advance for any input and advice.

    Rodney In Albuquerque,

    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      Hi Rodney,

      I’d personally go with the p-14, but either one will be fine to use with PSA decking πŸ™‚

      Good luck!

      ~Andy

  5. Scott A says:

    I recently acquired a “free” boat. 19′ 1976 Angler model unknown with an old ’73 Evinrude 135HP, (James Bond’s jump motor). Exterio is in great shape with nothingmore than typical screw holes to fill in, etc. After tearing apart the plywood floor I realized there USED to be another floor under that!. Wood completely rotted from the fiberglass covering and laying in the hull.

    I was going to donate the boat as I have never done anything with a boat and thought it would be a great deal over my head to deal with this. That is… until I saw your youtube videos getting into glass repair. So I thank you for your very in depth, easy to understand videos. Very well done, great topics, and a good follow through as well, (adding the “next step” videos which others may lack). So really, a very sincere thank you! Now my wife will get her boat πŸ™‚

  6. Scott A says:

    Watching your videos several times over, I tend to have a couple questions. This time, I remembered what one question was… I am replacing the entire floor structure of the boat. (Stringers, keel, and rebuilding the gas tank area, etc.) In one of your videos you mentioned specifically that using PVA was needed to prevent air from contacting the polyester laminating resin in order to cure. Finally, my question: Would I still have to create that barrier in the areas that I will be filling with expandable foam? Thanks for your help and keep up the great work!

    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      Hey Scott,

      No need to PVA foam. Most likely it’s a urethane foam which does not require any additional steps for setting up πŸ™‚

      Good luck on the project!

      ~Andy

  7. Scott A says:

    I’m sorry, I didn’t make myself clear… When putting new stringers in the boat, I have to wrap them in fiberglass. Since I will be using a laminating resin, do I still have to use PVA on the resin that will be covered in foam? Will the foam against the stringers be enough of a barrierfor the resin to cure, if that makes sense…

    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      You’ll still need to pva the resin prior to foaming for it to fully cure. Also, you’ll want to wash off the PVA, sand with 60-80 grit and clean with acetone before pouring the foam..

      Good luck!

  8. Russ Murphy says:

    What are the names of the skid patterns used on the walking areas of a sailboat and where can I get them?

    Thanks,
    Capt. Russ

  9. Duff Leaver says:

    Hi Andy,
    Thank you for your videos,they’re the best, I have a question for you.I recently bought a used 18 ft fiberglass sail boat ( Star Wind, Well Craft). The one issue that the boat has is that the seam along the sides joining the deck and the hull has separated. Can you give me some insight as to how I may repair this and join the two halves together? I could email some pics to help better explain. Thanks for your time. Go Pack!

  10. Mike Givens says:

    Andy, on a couple of my boats I have “painted” the backside of floors or concealed wood with acetone thinned resin to “water proof” them. Does this sound like an ok thing to do?
    Mike

    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      Sure, you could even use bilge paint (not bottom paint) πŸ™‚ It’s a good thing to do as it helps to protect against moisture and keeps the panels from bowing..

  11. TOM says:

    We are replacing a fuel tank in 1998 Sailfish CC. When cutting out the deck we found the same square pieces of core as you had on the fly bridge repair.
    Could this have been done to allow for the camber of the deck? It does not seem to be a very sound structural method to me.

    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      Most likely it was done to save on construction costs (they use scrap pieces left over from other areas and patch it all together).. If you’re replacing it, best thing would be to use solid pieces of ply (either 1 piece that is full thickness scoring the bottom so it can flex, or 2 layers that combine for the proper thickness). A single piece will most likely be a little easier to work with, but can’t say for sure πŸ™‚ Either way just make sure it’s good plywood (flat without any twists). The more layers in the ply the better..

  12. Mike says:

    Andy

    Have recenly found your videos and must say they are exceptional in many ways and a real teaching tool, I am more than happy to donate. Andy I am extended a swim platform on our boat and have builtthe superstructure out of timbers (marine ply, maranti, hardwood) and working to keep it as light as possible. I will apply glass at varoius points inside to provide strength. On the outside what would you suggest for glass? CSM followed by a woven strand followed by 2 x CSM? I will be sanding and painting the outside so any tips would be very much appreciated.

    Regards

    Mike

    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      The 2 types of glass I primarily use are 1.5oz csm and 1708 bi-axial. the 1708 is for strength and stiffness and csm for the finish layers. A normal layup would be something like this: csm, 1708, csm, 1708, csm, csm for the exterior finishing surface πŸ™‚ After the surface is sanded smooth, since you’ll be painting I tend to use thickened epoxy for the final fairing / smoothing then prime and paint..

      Hope this helps!

  13. Chris says:

    Fabulous website and tutorials!! Viewing your toboggan build, how far past the center of 9″ round jig did you go for plank stop? Thanks again have passed your site around to friends.

  14. Mike Casey says:

    Andy,
    Your videos have given me the confidence to take on a 1970 Boston Whaler restoration. I find myself watching them over and over and always learning something new each time. I have a question, I did grind down the textured floor and patches all the imperfections with Adtech P-14. The problem is that Awlgrip website states you can not use the 545 primer. They recommend High Build. Do I apply the High Build the same as the 545 or use the 545 after the High Build?

    Thanks for the videos! Keep them coming!

    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      Hey Mike,

      One thought comes to mind.. If all you removed was the gelcoat layer and maybe the first layer of glass you’ll be fine using p-14 alone to fare the surface. However if you had to grind away a fair amount of glass that should be replaced with new glass then use p-14 to fare the surface for finishing.

      Ok, with that out of the way, you are fine to use 545 over p-14 to prime for painting. That being said, don’t count on 545 for any build. When working with paint, all the films are very thin (MUCH thinner than gelcoat πŸ™‚ ).. High build primer is used then there are minor imperfections (something along the lines of 6-8 sheets of paper thick). After that, you would still need to go over top of that with 545 prior to painting.

      So, the short answer is you’re fine to use p-14, 545 then paint πŸ™‚

      Hope this helps!

  15. Nick Billman says:

    Hey Andy just wanna say your videos are great and are really helping me out I’m just starting to repair or totally restore an 89 dargel scooter. I was working blind before I started watching your videos. Now I feel iv got some real instruction to finish what I’m doing so thanks a bunch. Quick question what is a god resperator to buy and for sanding fiberglass and what cartridge number ?

  16. nick billman says:

    hi andy
    need some help. whats a general procedure for laying new glass when replacing a deck floor. for example iv been told 2oz csm 2 oz csm and then 4 oz woven is this correct or what would you recomend?

    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      I typically do 1.5oz csm, 1708, csm, 1708 and finish with 2 layers of csm πŸ™‚ But ultimately what you’re shooting for is to match the same thickness as what was original.

  17. Toby Bowman says:

    Thank you so much for giving us your time in helping us! If you will, I have some questions about my project. I have a 14 foot 1972 Fish&Ski small fiberglass boat with a 45 hp outboard. I have some rotten wood on the floor, stringers & transom. I also have some areas of fiberglass that needs structural repair & all the gelcoat top & bottom has sun/heat damage.
    If anything below sounds incorrect or there is a better way, please let me know. I am thinking of using a polyester resin w/csm, 1708 & gelcoat.
    1st I am going replace the entire transom. Only ΒΌ of the area is soft but because the transom is over 40 years old I fill I should replace the entire thing. I am going to cut the entire fiberglass & wood out & put back 2 pieces of 3/4inch marine plywood (AB Douglas fir). Since I will be cutting out the entire rear fiberglass, are 4 layers of 1708 & 2 of CSM good for transom glass & should I extend each layer by adding 3inches on each side & bottom, on each layer, with last layer of 1708 going 12inches around each side? How do I replace the metal drain holes in the transom?
    2nd I want to flip the boat over & repair the damage glass & then re-gelcoat the bottom & sides. Should I use Duratec Hi Gloss additive in last gelcoat at ΒΌ to 1 part gelcoat so no PVA or wax needed & how much hardener? I want make a 6inch stripe around the sides of the boat in a blue color & the rest of sides & bottom in white. Is it better to gelcoat the blue stripe first & tape off & gelcoat the rest? Should all gelcoat layers be in the blue color & if the stripe is 6inches x 31 feet how much blue gelcoat do you think I might need?
    3rd Flip boat right side up & remove all floor & stringers. Coat the stringers with resin/cs mix & add two layers of 1708 to each stringer. Replace floor with 3/4inch marine plywood (AB Douglas fir). Apply 2 layers of 1708 & 2 layers of 1.5 csm to floor. If I overlap each mat of 1708 will it be too high in the overlap areas? So do I just butt each strip and offset the next layer? I also want to make the gelcoat floor not glosses (Flat) how do that? I also want to make the floor not as slippery, It looked like the original floor had bumps of spattered paint or gelcoat on it that help it be a little less slippery. Can splattering the last gelcoat on the floor making it a little bumpy, do you think this would work & if I do not use duratec do I use wax? If I use Awl-grip with gelcoat is the application of it similar to the way you did in your video when painting it & how do you sand it & do you use a wax?
    4th Sand down gelcoat of top cap of boat & repair fiberglass areas & re-gelcoat all white w/Duratec hi-gloss additive.

    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      Hi Toby,

      Step 1 sounds good, but I would finish the outer-most layers with csm, not 1708 as this glass will sand smoother for finishing. Also, I’d suggest using epoxy for laminating the ply together during installation for added work time, but do the glass layup with poly πŸ™‚

      Step 2: I wouldn’t bother with gelcoating the bottom as there are better alternatives (barrier coat and bottom paint). Gelcoating is a LOT of added work with no additional protection against moisture. Also, duratec should not be used below the waterline. I’d barrier coat from the waterline down (any kind of boot stripe can come later during the finishing process).

      Step 3: Make sure to mix up thickened poly (milled glass fiber and cabosil) to fillet any hard transitions to make it easier for making the glass contour without trapping air voids. On this size boat I’d do the glass layup for the stringers like this: csm, 1708, csm, 1708, csm, csm. Finish with poly resin mixed with wax additive to fully cure. Glass layup for the floor / sole should be the same; just make sure to tab the edges to the hull before laying the overall glass.

      On a full re-fit, I’d personally go with paint rather than gelcoat any day. A lot less work! You can use different paints and additives depending on it’s use (non-skid Vs smooth areas) to get the satin / flat appearance. Pettit makes a great deck paint that has the non-skid mixed in already. I wouldn’t bother with Awlgrip on this project; the paint alone will cost as much, if not more than the boat is worth :-). Pettit also makes very good topside paints; check out ez-poxy, or for a more durable finish their ez-poxy2. Both are a roll / tip application and work great!

      Hope this helps!

  18. Toby Bowman says:

    Thank you so much for your suggestions! I never thought paint could be an option. I have been buying everything ahead of time when i would get money so since I already have gelcoat do you have any suggestions (floor, thinner, wax or pva). Also I have not found mixing amounts for adding wax to poly resin, is it the same as MEKP 1%-1.5%? Thanks i really appreciate your advise.

  19. Doug says:

    Andy, I just found your site and have been hooked on your videos. Your shop looks like an amazing work space.
    I have a couple of questions, first is what do you recommend to repair a gouge in the bow of my boat that was done by the previous owner and a bad bow roller on the trailer. It is not too deep but is about 6 inches long and above water line. How would I fill it and match gel coat?
    Second question is I removed a bunch of old electronics and left some large holes in my dash, now I want to fill the holes and redo the dash area and start fresh for new electronics .

    What’s your recommendation on materials and steps ?

    Thanks for what you do

  20. Ed Gibson says:

    Hi Andy,
    I just want to say that you are a real tradesman. I just found you and have been watching your vidios. We just bought a 1999 carver 504 and it has a soft aft deck. About 1/3 of it, so I find the vidio that’s you did on the repair of one with simple problem. I also was warching the one you did on the rudder , but couldn’t find the fourth one. I was wondering if the foam you used could used in some small places that I may not be able to get to. For instance where I can get the old material out, but will not ba able to bond the new wood. This would be back in under something.

    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      I think you’ll run into problems trying to pour foam into a horizontal surface; it will make a huge mess and likely won’t be able to flow where it needs to go. Unfortunately I think you’ll need to take a few steps backwards to move forward with the repair. See if there’s a way to remove or cut away material for better access to do a proper repair. If you need suggestions feel free to email a couple pics. boatworkstoday@gmail.com

  21. Ed Gibson says:

    Andy, you have a great gift with what you do. I ran across you YouTube and have found your vidios very interesting. We just bought a 50 foot boat and some of what you have been doing, like a soft aft deck,so this winter I will be starting on it. Do they make a thin coring material 1/4 inch thin and 8 feet or longer and where I can get it?

    Ed

    • ~Andy ~Andy says:

      Can you tell what material was used originally on the deck? For an aft deck, I’d probably look to use a marine grade plywood. Check with Boulter Plywood as I know they have the material. There may be others closer to your area that have it as well. What you’ll be looking for is a plywood that is rated BS1088 or BS6566. BS = British Standards and is true marine ply.

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