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Where did you get that carpet brush? I have been looking everywhere!
Sincerely,
Karima
http://www.amazon.com/CARPET-BRUSH-HOOK—Loop-ATTACHMENT/dp/B0021KII10/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347034362&sr=8-1&keywords=velcro+carpet+brush
This is where I got mine 🙂
Would a DA work as well?
I tried it but was not successful 🙁 The only reason I gave up was because the velcro pad on my sander is pretty worn out and it couldn’t hold onto the brush.. Granted my sander is very aggressive but it pretty much let loose after 5-10 sec.. It may have worked if the velcro on the sander was new (had more holding power) but unfortunately I can’t say for sure… If you try it please let me know how it goes!!
I actually found a one piece brush. Threads right into the arbor. The bristles seem a little stiff, but hopefully it won’t scratch the gelcoat. Have to start slow with low pressure and see how it goes.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LS9V0K/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
That should work great! Good find.
Thank you. I have a Hunter sailboat that has very aggressive non-skid that is also oxidized and a little chalky. I have acquired the same brush you use in the video and am excited about finally restoring the top sides of my boat. I am planning on using 3M Super Duty compound and protecting with Woody Wax. The smooth areas around the non-skid are getting the same compound, applied with a wool bonnet, followed by 3M Finesse It, and protected with a coat of Fleetwax. Would you recommend anything different to this plan – especially, is this enough for the non-skid? Your fiberglass repair videos are outstanding and have helped me do minor repairs confidently.
Hi Daniel, I think your plan sounds good. Only thing I may caution is using a wax over the non-skid.
There’s two ways of looking at this.
– If you don’t apply wax it will probably chalk back up again within a year (BUT without the wax it won’t be slippery!)
– If you apply the wax it’s going to be slick as… Well, you won’t have much traction 🙂 BUT it probably won’t chalk up as quickly..
If it were me I probably would not wax the non-skid, but I would use a boat soap that contains wax.. This is kind of a happy medium.. This may actually be what you were looking at http://www.woody-wax.com/ultra-pine-boat-soap.php
Thanks for the input Andy. This is the stuff I was recommended – http://www.woody-wax.com/fiberglass-non-skid-deck-wax.php
I’ll make sure to try it first in an area of little traffic. They claim fish blood just rinses off. I suppose that if I slip, I can rest assured that my blood won’t leave stains. Thanks again for the videos.
Hi, I’m planning to paint my topsides in the near future as the gel coat is past its best. I’ve got areas of non skid in the gel coat. How should this be prepared for paint. ? I keep think the only way to this this would be grit blasting Any one got a solution ?? many thanks
Sand it smooth and apply a non-skid texture to the new paint 🙂
Thanks Andy, was hoping to get the boat builders secret method that didn’t involve grinding or sanding and loads of dust. !
The porous, colored resin end on your boat is only 20 mils thick, that’s about 5 sheets of office copy paper.
Hi Andy, I am planning on compounding my non-skid on my 99 290 Sea Ray Sundancer. It is heavily oxidized and it holds any possible dirt and shoe mark. My non-skid is rather smoother than most. So, I was planning on using a foam pad or wool. I don’t have that “diamond” pattern non-skid that you see in your video.
What is the compound you recommend to restore the look of the deck? I was planning on purchasing the Maguire’s One Step Compound. Do you think this is too abrasive? Once compounded I was going to follow with Meguiar’s Boat Wash N Wax Soap and maintain it weekly with the soap.
Thanks
Hi Enrico! The one-step isn’t going to do a thing. I’d look at their #49 oxidation remover or stepping up to Aquabuff 1000 using the same bristle pad in the video. Hope this helps! Good luck!