In this video I am using laminating poly resin, 1.5 oz csm and 1708 bi-axial glass. In order to ensure a good bond onto the plywood it is essential to pre-coat the surface with resin! Not doing so will almost certainly result in a dry layup and de-lamination 🙁 Not good…
In total, I used 12oz of resin to pre-coat the surface and layup all the glass shown in the demo. The fin roller I used to establish the radius on the fillet is 1/2″ and I used a router with a 1/8″ round over bit on the top edges. I knew this was going to be difficult to make the glass conform to such a tight curve but I wanted to see if it would work. It did, but I would strongly recommend that if you need to do something like this, a larger radius would be much easier! At least 1/4″.. 1/2″ would be better if the application allows.
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Materials, Tools, & Suppliers
- 1.5oz CSM Fiberglass
- 1708 Bi-Axial Fiberglass
- Fin Rollers
- Polyester Resin
- Stir Sticks & Mixing Cups
very good – it reinforces what I learned from your other videos.
Hi Andy,
I’ve just recently”stumbled” onto your website and lordy lordy, am I ever grateful for this stumble!
You have given me so much information on things that I was leery to take on, that I feel very confident in what I need to do to make my 34 C&C a much better vessel. Especially your tutelage on fibreglassing.
One question..would you recommend VHB sealant for the windows or port lites on my boat? I’ve used Plexus in the past, but that led to greater issues. Body filler under the gelcoat was torn off the fibreglass by the flexing of the boat, leading to leaks of course!
I sure do appreciate how you’ve formatted your tutorials and how you speak in plain English. It’s refreshing to actually see someone present so clearly!!
Thanks Andy and heck I`d like to hang out and learn more about boat repairing. I kinda love it myself.
cheers and Happy New Year! Marits
Hi Marits!
Thank you for the kind words!!!
Yes, the VHB tape is a much better choice for installing plastic (frameless) portlights! The tape will allow movement of the polycarbonate as it expands and contracts with temperature. I don’t believe Plexus does this as well. I’ve found the best pricing to be through Zoro tools, or on Ebay.
Hope this helps!
Hi Andy,
Looks like you are doing well. Quick question. Do you catalyze before making the peanut butter or after mixing?
Thanks Mike
Hi Mike!
I do prefer to catalyze the resin before adding any other material. It just makes it easier to ensure that the resin is properly mixed 😉
Hope this helps!
Andy,
When initially setting the stringer down on the bottom of the hull, would you need to lay the peanut butter between the stringer and hull?
Thanks,
NIck
I learned a lot from this video! I just bought a Thunderbird that’s in great shape except that the shelf running around the inside perimeter of the hull is rotting out. I can imagine using the techniques in this video to attach a new 4″ shelf to replace it. I still need to figure out how to cut the shelf to match the curve of the hull and how to hold it in place while applying the fiberglass layers. Do you have any suggestions?
Thanks so much!
Luke
Hi Luke!
That’s a little tricky to answer without a little more info :-/ Can you send me a couple pics? Thank you!
Hi Anndy
I have a boat that I am fixing up found your site
And OMG has it helped me
Would like to say thank you
Thank you very much Peter!! Glad the video’s helped 😉
Hey Andy,
Really great website. Great help for a beginner like me. Would this technique apply with Divinycell.
Pretty much 🙂
Hey Andy,
Love the site and I am a happy/proud supporter. Currently working on rebuilding a 60’s Boston Whaler. Needs a whole lot of work, some deck work, rebuilding a significant portion of the gunwale (entire bow and a couple feet of starboard aft quarter). I am also just recently realizing I really should rebuild the core of the transom. Can you recommend solutions for the following:
– Core material – should I just go with plywood, or is it worth spending the extra $$ on a composite/synthetic core material?
– Materials – For a load-bearing structure like the transom (holding a Yamaha T70), am I good with your standard 1.5oz CSM + 1708 glass, or should I mix in something heavier as well?
– I will likely go with laminating resin, I like the idea of the better bonding between layers. Is it easier/better to go with a wax additive or to cover with a solution (PVA?) after the final layer? Either way, recommendations on a product?
Thanks, and keep up the great work!
Alex