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Hi Andy,
I looked at the first video on this and I’m still wondering about that rudder post.
Would it have been better to weld some bars on the post to keep it solid in the rudder before pouring? I know that if you had and it failed, you would be blamed for “enhancing” the post design but if it fails as is, won’t someone say,”You saw the problem, why didn’t you correct it?”
Do you see these manufacturing ‘cost-cutting’ solutions often in well priced vessels?
Thanks,
Frank
I decided not to alter the original construction of the rudder for a couple reasons. Primarily because I have great confidence in this manufacturer’s R&D. Their boats are what’s considered “free standing” rigs meaning that there are no stays or shrouds to help keep the mast straight and upright. They incorporate a lot of carbon fiber into their designs and know probably as much as anyone what their materials can tolerate. If they say it’s good, I believe them (although it’s not how it’s typically done, but on the other hand most boats aren’t designed to be free standing rigs!)..
The other reason I didn’t alter anything was for liability. If I change something on the design I then become liable if something were to happen 🙂
Not sure why the original issue of a hollow post was left the way it was. I’m guessing it was an oversight on this particular rudder and not the ‘norm’. At least I hope so!! The post was a combination of glass and carbon fiber with roughly 5/8″ side walls (extremely strong!). Honestly not too concerned about it. They’ve been building boats for years and I am not aware of the shafts being a strength issue.
Have a safe and happy New Year!
Do you have any problem with the foam not adhering to the previous pour? Can you pour a larger amount of foam at a time with a lighter density? Can’t wait for the next installment.
Hi Mike,
never had a problem with bonding. It is some very sticky stuff! Lighter density foams will expand more than dense, so you probably could do larger pours without too much heat buildup. BUT, I would suggest doing some testing to see how it goes. I’m a fan of multiple thinner pours rather than less thicker ones (just for safety) 🙂
Hope this helps!
Have a safe and happy New Year!
~Andy
Hi Andy,
You can add water (some % ) or Dichlorométhane if you want less density !
Do attention because if you put too much water or diclo the foam retract himself after some days 😉
try it and see how many % you can add without retraction after 2 weeks for exemple before use it as core.
Thanks for your videos 😉
Julien
What was the rudder post made of? Looked like a fiberglass post inside the rudder. No “metal ears” as you called them were attached to post to help with the turning of rudder. What’s up with that?
The post appeared to me a combination of glass and carbon fiber. The walls were roughly 5/8″ thick (which is extremely strong!).
I decided not to alter the original construction of the rudder for a couple reasons. Primarily because I have great confidence in this manufacturer’s R&D. Their boats are what’s considered “free standing” rigs meaning that there are no stays or shrouds to help keep the mast straight and upright. They incorporate a lot of carbon fiber into their designs and know probably as much as anyone what their materials can tolerate. If they say it’s good, I believe them.. The other reason I didn’t alter anything was for liability. If I change something on the design I then become liable if something were to happen 🙂
Not sure why the original issue of a hollow post was left the way it was. I’m guessing it was an oversight on this particular rudder and not the ‘norm’. At least I hope so!!
Have a safe and happy New Year!
Very interesting videos, all of them! I commend you for your willingness to educate others.
I wonder how this design resists what must be tremendous torque on the rudder (e.g., following seas, backing down). Maybe the carbon fiber post just sticks so well to the foam that it is strong enough. I agree Freedom has a good rep, and the one I sailed was robust (odd not to have shrouds to grab as you walk forward, though) – on the other hand, look at the water logging of this one.
Did you do anything to prevent future water incursion down the tube? Maybe the denser foam would be the “plug”?
With the work that was done (specifically upgrading the density of the foam) the structure should be stronger than original. I put a lot of confidence in Freedom’s R&D; based on the original material used, the post alone is strong enough to withstand any pressures under way (It was bonded to the other side of the rudder skin full length of the post) 🙂
Hi Andy. I first saw one of your videos on you tube . I’ve since told every boating friend about your show. Very informative and entertaining, I look forward to your future videos. I have a 31 Oday and do all my own repairs and upgrades. Thanks for all the tips and advice.
Hi Andy Just to tell you that I enjoyed with your videos. I´m from Argentina and use to sail with my sailboat 30 fts fiber glass with all the interior made solid wood. Thank you for your teaching. Regarss
Hallo Andy,
your video’s, of rebuilding a rudder, are the most useful things I have seen for long long time.
No big talking, no nonsense, just facts.
My Hydrovan wind steering rudder broke, and I lost the biggest part of it.
With your video, it’s possible for me, to build another one.
Many thanks.
Regards.
Willy
Hi Andy
I am about to do the same on my rudder from a Hunter 320 built in 2001.
2 questions: how did you know which side to open since the carbon post was glued on one side? If you would have opened the other side then you were in for a lot more work.
How did you close the hole where the water was coming in? Did you only used the 16lbs foam?
Than Andy, those a great videos and will help me do the work on mine.
Michel
Hi Michel,
Basically I just sounded / tapped both sides of the rudder and opened up the half that sounded most hollow. Not all rudders are bonded like that, this was actually somewhat of a surprise 🙂 Had to leave the original hole open, but did replace the o-ring that seals the access deck cap. Unfortunately was the only option :-/
Hi Andy,
Love your vids!
The question I have is how are you sure of the adhesion of the port side laminate to the foam? It seems to me that the foam its self doesnt have much adhesive quality, especially to an un-keyed surface like the inside surface of the laminate that you pulled the foam off. Im sure the starboard side was very well adhered considering it was sanded to shape and then coated with epoxy to establish the bonding layer prior to layup. My experience has been that foam doesnt stick well to much of anything, but of course resins stick well to foam after opening the cells with sanding.
Keep up the good work!!!
Jon